Sunday, October 31, 2010

Traveling the Tennessee - Day 27 - New Johnsonville to Clifton, TN

Saturday, we awoke to ground fog, which I suspect is typical of this time of year.  The water temperature at New Johnsonville is 65 degrees while the air temperature is in the low 40s.  The good news is that the fog burns off rapidly and we could have been off safely as earely as 9:00AM.


Typical morning fog
Instead we went for a walk with Kodi.  On the way out of the marina we passed this unusual steel sailing vessel sitting on the hard.  It would be the perfect prop for a horror movie or perhaps the marina put it there for Halloween.  Note the bilge keels.  These enable the vessel to settle on the bottom when the tide goes out. Brittany and Scott. We had you in mind when we shot this photo.


Unloved sailing vessel sitting of the hard
The marina is immediately adjacent to a civil war battleground site, The Johnsonville State Historical Area.  So, we chose to explore it on our walk.



This was the site of an 1864 battle where the Confederate General, Nathan B. Forrest, attacked and destroyed a Union Railroad depot that was critical to Sherman's March to the Sea.  It was also unusual in that it is the only instance where a cavalry force defeated a naval force.  According to the locals they are still diving for and retreiving artifacts.


Historic Area details - Wroth Reading
The trail wound upward passing redoubts (i.e., a small defensive fortification used to defend a promintent point) and rifle pits to a scenic overlook where we could see the Tennessee.


View of the Tennessee from the scenic overlook
On the way down we passed and old cemetery and learned about the consequences of damming the Tennessee and Cumberland rivers to create the Land Between the Lakes from the marker below.  This explains the name "New" in the New Johnsonville city name.



We departed at 10:00 AM and 45 minutes later was passed through the Tennessee National Wildlife Refuge, an area consisting of 50,000 acres of water, forests, farmland and wetlands that supports hundreds of birds, annimals and fish.  Like the Land Between The Lakes this is pristine wilderness.

Exiting the wildlife refudge we began to see homes along the banks.  Some were very attractive and well situated on bluffs.

Unusually attracive group of homes along the Tennessee
The calm water and absence of debris afforded the opportunity to test the new props.  We ran the engines slowly up to 2400 RPMs and to our joy found no vibration.  At 2400 we were moving along at 28.2 MPH, which adjusting for the current, yields our normal cruising speed of 30.  It felt good.

As we approached Clifton we passed a group of 8 homes along the left bank, which caused us to specualate as the what the developer had in mind.  Note the absence of trees or anything elso that would make them desirable. 

Strange group of new homes
At 3:12 PM, some six hours and 61 miles after departure, we arrived at our destination, the Clifton Marina,  a small but very well maintained marina immediately adjactent to the city.  We shared the harbor with a 70 foot Neptunus named Andiamo, which according to the gal at the marina was owned by the owner of Gene and Georgetti's restaurant.

Guided Discovery on an UNCOVERED slip.  The TV worked just fine
We then explored the city which we found small with well maintained homes.  Dinner, thanks to the loan of the marina's courtesy car, was at the restuarant at Ross Creek Landing, a Jack Nicolaus Signature Golf Course.  It was delicious and like everything so far, inexpensive (by Chicago standards).  Below are photos from our walk in Clifton.

Downtown after hours

Scenic overlook


Tricked-out and ready for trick or treat

The Confederacy is alive and well

Halloween is big everywhere
End to a perfect day

Saturday, October 30, 2010

We Love the Tennessee River - Day 27 - Grand Rivers, KY to New Johnsonville, TN

Friday, we awoke to clear skies and 34 degrees, which is cold enough to make the docks rather slippery.  We installed the bikes, walked Kodi and at 8:34 AM departed Green Turtle Bay for a 70 mile run to Pebble Isle in New Johnsonville, TN.


Departing Green Turtle Bay
Pulling out of Green Turtle Bay we turned right onto the one mile long Barkley Canal, which connects the Cumberland River to Kentucky Lake, and then left onto the Tennessee.  For the first 44 miles we ran south along the Land Between the Lakes and passed by pristine wilderness on our port side.  When you run south on the Tennessee you are actually upbound, which means against the current.  Hence, we had to run at 1250 RPMs to maintain 10.0 MPH.  The efficiency at this speed is slightly better than 1 mile per gallon. 

The Tennessee is a beautiful wide river with no debris, no weirdams and no wing dams, all of which means less chance of damaging the props.  During the course of this leg we had a first.  A pleasure boat actually passed us while we were underway as did two other later in the day.  Heretofore, we have been running south all by ourselves.

The first pleasure vessel to pass us
Further south we passed Sarah Palin's bridge to nowhere.  Well, OK it's just an old abandoned railroad bridge where they removed part of the span.



Immediately to its south we passed this strange structure.  I'm sure there's a story here but it was not in the cruising guide. 



The scenery while beautiful did not lend itself to taking photos.  After we passed the Land Between the Lakes wilderness we saw a few homes along the water.

Homes along the Tennessee

We pulled into Pebble Isle gas dock at 4:10 PM, topped of the tanks with 68 gallons of fuel and pumpout the holding tank.  Diesel was $2.99 per gallon (best price yet),  dockage was $45.60 and a lovely dinner at their restaurant was $28. Note: They assigned us to a covered slip; a first for us and as it turned out the source of a puzzle.


Up to then it had been a perfect day.  Then stuff happened.  The first "stuff" was the sound of what sounded like a pump cycling approximately every 30 seconds.  This as you can imagine is not a good situation as the pump will eventually burn itself out.  Tracing the cycling noise was not easy.  I eventually started turning switches on and off in the electrical panel to see if I could isolate the problem.  This strategy succeeded to a point.  I narrowed the source to the 110 volt Starboard Systems switch and then identified the KVH satellite dome as the source of the cycling noise.  However, once identified, I could not shut it down despite actually trying to read Sea Ray's wiring diagrams in the Owner's Handbook.  So, we spent the evening with the 110 volt Starboard Systems switch off.  The only inconvenience was loosing the lights over the computer and having to move all the electrical devices that charge on the starboard side to the port side outlets (i.e., computer, Verizon MIFI, My phone and the ipad).

The other "stuff" involved Kodi, who ingested something extremely foul that caused her to vomit the contents of her stomach onto the outdoor carpet on the bridge.  I spent considerable time, in the dark, trying to get out the stain, which appeared black and oily.  Several products were tried; Dawn, Fantastic and Woolite OxiDeep and Soph's favorite, Wesley's Bleach White.  Only the Wesley's worked but, unfortunately, not perfectly. 

Note: The greater concern was that Kodi could have poisoned herself.  We watched her clsely to detect any change in her behavior that would indicate that she was at risk.  Fortunately, vomiting solved the problem and she continued to be her lovable self thoughout the evening.

Solving the problem of the cycling motor and stain consumed most of my evening.  Oh well, the joys of boating and dog ownership.

Post Script: Saturday, I called Tom Tobin, my salesperson and friend at Skipper Buds, to see if he could shed light on the KVH problem.  He did.  Turns out the covered slip was the culprit.  The metal roof blocked the satellite signal causing the KVH to search, which was the source of the cycling sound.  Sure enough, when we docked Saturday afternoon in Clifton in a normal (uncovered) slip the KVH receiver worked just fine.  Note: Sea Ray does not make life easier.  The wiring diagram does not show the optional KVH receiver (dome) switch, which is somewhat non-descript and hidden in a cabinet under the entertainment center.



Relevant cliches: All well that ends well.  Live and learn.

Written by Les

Friday, October 29, 2010

More Shiney New Props - Day 26 - Grand Rivers, KY

Thursday, Tom Hilbert returned with the propellers that had been rehabilitated to better than new condition by Air Marine in Chicago and helped me store them underneath the cabin sole (floor).  Total cost for my impatience on the Illinois River: $468 to lift the boat and install the spares, $500 to retune the props and $600 for a new starboard spur (which will by reinstalled the next time the boat is pulled out of the water).

Tom helping me with the props
Prop #1 next to the Gray Water Sump
Notice the open box immediately to the right of the propeller.  It is called the gray water sump.  It collects waste water from the sinks and showers and condensate from the four air conditioners.  If not cleaned regularly it can become a source of unpleasant odors.  We clean it every two months.  Since I had to pull up the canvas carpet cover anyhow, I used that as an opportunity to clean the sump.  Tom got there just as I started the process.  Hence the open sump.

So, an hour later I had my spare props and a clean sump.

Written by Les

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Green Turtle Bay Days - Days 22-25 - Grand Rivers

Hi folks  ..  sorry we've been delinquent in blogging  .. we're still in GTB  .. enjoying the resort.   We're on Lake Barkley (then there's the Land Between the Lakes or LBL) and on the other side is Kentucky Lake.  These lakes are big (44 miles long).  There's not much activity on either lake now (late Oct.), but I'm sure it bustles in the summertime.   Unlike the rivers, the lakes are clean.   There is a land crossover that we can walk in about 20 minutes to go back and forth between the lakes.  On a dingy, it's a long ride to the other side.    So here we are with our masthead (Kodi) touring the north side of the GTB resort.

  
Kodi our Masthead

These are GTB timeshares on Lake Barkley that can be rented. 
The weather has been super.   Since we left Oct. 3, we had 21 consecutive days of perfect weather.  Then, for a change, it rained on Sunday and Monday and stormed on Tuesday.  Today, 10/27 it's once again sunny and 77 degrees.   Just lovely.


Storm clouds on Sunday
Wed. through Sun., the Yacht Club at GTB serves dinner.   (See last blog)  However, considering this is a "dry" county, the bar at the Yacht Club is always crowded?    Seems that you can bring your bottle of Jack Daniels, etc. or wine, if you'd prefer, and give it to the bartender.  He puts it on a shelf with your name and member number and then you can ask him for as many drinks as you'd like.   And people at the bar like a lot of drinks!

Monday and Tuesday nights we got the courtesy car and went to the movies in Paducah (30 miles one way).    Like other small towns, the cinema is at the mall .. not in the downtown area.   We went to see "Hereafter," the new Clint Eastwood movie with Matt Damon, which we thought was terrific.  We were surprised, however, at how few people were at the 7 PM show.


That's Diana before the other 6 people arrived

On Tuesday, we saw "Social Network" about Facebook co-founder Mark Zuckerburg.   I'm not sure how much is fact and how much is fiction, but we did enjoy the movie.

Tuesday afternoon, Les found out there was a place in Grand Rivers where he could get his haircut.  Kodi and I walked over with him.    The shop is in a tiny pink cottage.   The owner/operator is Janice Kaye.    Janice is adorable and speaks with the mild southern drawl from Kentucky.   She did a great job on Les' hair, so I asked her if she'd cut my hair too.  Well, a while later I was liberated from long hair and feeling real good about it!

Today (Wednesday), Les has been working hard (very hard) on cleaning the silt out of the sea strainers, which we picked up on the Mississippi (aka, the Big Muddy) and in shallow water on the Illinois; especially at the IVY Club and Tall Timbers Marina.


Engine and generator sea strainers.  They had some mud

Side Story: Charlevoix is our favorite destination on Lake Michigan and one we have done many times despite a 650 mile round trip.  The photo below is of a large boat house on Round Lake that we have long admired.


Massive boat house on Round Lake
On Monday, Les walked up to a boat with a Charlevoix hailing port on the transome and started the conversation with "Charlevoix is our favorite port."  Les and the owner got to talking about Charlevoix and, guess what, he discovers he is talking to the owner of the boat house; John Winn.  Further he discovers that John is one of the four Winn brothers who founded Four Winns; a major boat manufactuer.

The story gets even more interesting.  Turns out John, who was "driving" a late model Silverton Sadan Bridge, also stopped at the IVY club for fuel and overnight dockage.  Recall that we also bought fuel and stayed there two nights.  The photo below shows Guided Discovery just east of the fuel dock (red dock just in front of our boat).

Guided Discovery tied to starboard just east of the fuel dock
We churned up alot of mud as we pulled into the fuel dock and still more as we moved the boat west to stay for the night (Note: Hence the need to clean the sea strainers).  We were told by the marina folks that it was a sandy bottom.  Turns out John was told the same thing and pulled in as we did to a starboard tie.  However, for some reason he needed to turn the boat around and in the process of docking to port (or facing west) his starboard prop struck a rock (that was not suppose to be there).  Well, $6,000 later and a 20 minute tale of woe with many chapters (too complicated to re-tell), he was sitting at the GTB dock with new props but, unfortunately, still had a vibration between 1,200 and 1,400 RPMs.  Bottom Line: We were just plain lucky.

Written by Diana and Les


Sunday, October 24, 2010

Our First Civil War Battlefield - Day 21 - Dover, Tennessee

Saturday's sunny skies and warm temperature (70's) contributed the 21st consecutive day of perfect weather since leaving Chicago on October 3rd. 

The morning began with a two hour walk with Kodi through Green Turtle Bay, which focused on the resort part of the facility.  My comment to Diana was that except for groceries and other basics, you literally never have to leave.  What is even more interesting is our cost.  For a 9 day stay, our average daily cost will be an unbelievable $46 and that includes access to the yacht club, health club and several courtesy cars (where all you pay for is the gas).  Click here to see the photos on this amazing facility.

The afternoon's adventure was a 88 mile round trip through the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area, which was created by congress in 1966.  Our destination was Dover Tennessee, the site of Fort Donelson.  We departed at 12:30 PM.



The ride through the park's 44 mile highway, which gently winds through beautiful rolling hills, was enhanced by the rapidly emerging fall colors.  Along the way, we stopped at the Welcome Center and discovered that this weekend was their annual youth hunt (with a warning to stay off the trails).  Sure enough, a young man had shot a buck.  Kodi was with me when I shot this photo and she was surprisingly calm.


Recently shot buck by the Welcome Center.  Park Ranger looking on to the right of the photo

Coal blast Charcoal Furnace used to make iron (see explanation below)


After an hour's drive, we arrived at the Fort Donelson National Battlefield.  Our first stop was the Visitor Center where we watched an EXCEPTIONAL 15 minute video that provided a overview of the history and the details of the battle.  Then we proceeded to major park sites, which were well marked with great explanations.  The battlefield is beautifully maintained.


A little background on our desire to visit Civil War and Revolutionary War sites and on the battle that took place here.

Last summer and fall (2009), I read 9 books by Jeff Shaara and one by his father, Michael dealing with the Revolutionary Way (2 volumes), The Civil War (3 volumes), The Mexican War (1 volume), World War I (1 volume) and World War II (3 volumes).  Shaara writes fictional history and accomplishes his task by focusing on the key leaders, to show the view from the top, and several soldiers, to give you the view from the trenches.  What makes it fictional is the dialogue that Shaara creates to put you, so to speak, in the heads of the characters.  The characters are real as are the events.  The dialogue is invented from written accounts including historical novels and papers researched by Shaara. The revolutionary and civil war books have heightened my interest in visiting the battlefields.  Note: Michael Sharra's novel, The Killer Angels, was the basis for the 1993 movie Gettysburg starring Martin Sheen as General Robert E. Lee.  We will, most certainly, visit Gettysburg.

The Battle of Fort Donelson (click on the link for the full story) took place in February of 1862 and was the first major Union victory.  The photos below show the vital statistics.  The Union has 21,500 troops to the Confederate's 13,089.  After four days of battle, the Confederates surrendered.  A total of 757 Americans died.



The first part of battle was fought on the Cumberland river between the Confederate shore batteries and four Union gunboats.

Description of the batteries and the battle

One of three Confederate shore batteries

Another view of the guns looking down the Cumberland

A 32 Pounder looking right down the river

This is a formidable weapon.  Beyond the wall above are batteries on the high ground
Batteries on the high ground also looking down river

  
Description of the river battle
 There was also a battery looking over the river.  Here the fortifications are harder to see because they are earthworks.  Without the trees, which were not there at the time, the guns had a clear view of the Cumberland.

9 Pounder overlooking the river

Description of the River Battery

Earthworks and artillery piece

Kodi ever alert for the enemy (rabbits, squirrels or anything that moves)
Soldiers at the fort lived in small log huts like one in the photo below.  There were over 400 of these at the time of the battle. 




View of the inside.  Slightly better that a pup tent

The land battle commenced after the river battle failed.  Union General Smith pushed the Confederate troops back to the ridge in the photo.


Smiths attach and Bruckners defense.  Some soldier are buried her in unmarked graves
Confederate General Simon Bruckner, a West Point classmate and friend of General Ulysses S. Grant prior to the war surrendered on 13,000 Confederate soldiers at the Dover Hotel on February 18, 1862.  Grant's demand of an "unconditional surrender" earned him the nickname of Unconditional Surrender Grant.

We concluded with a visit to the Fort Donelson National Cemetery, which contains gaves from the Fort Donelson battle along with the graves of soldiers from all US wars.



Administrative building

Graves of Illinois soldiers who found at Fort Donelson

Overview of the cemetery
Soldiers' graves from other wars 

A more "recent" grave

Original grave
A philosophical view
A parting thought.  In the Civil War brother fought against brother and friend against friend.  Recall my comment that the 15 minute film was exceptional.  It started with a story about the meeting of two West Point friends and graduates, Ulysses S. Grant and Simon Boliver Buckner, in New York City prior to the war where Buckner helped Grant who was in need of money.  Years later, at Fort Donelson, the two friends now adversaries met at the Dover Hotel to negotiate the terms of surrender.  Twenty years later, when Grant was on his deathbed he was visited by Buckner, who 13 days later was one of Grant's pallbearers.

Another plan comes together.  We departed the battleground at 4:00 PM and drove the 50 or so miles back to Green Turtle Bay with the goal of having dinner and attending our second show at the Bladgett Playhouse, which required us to be in our seats by 6:55 PM (and we did with two minutes to spare). 


Our 200,000 plus mile courtesy car.  Total cost: $19 for gas
We and again dined at the Commonwealth Yacht Club and had a relatively unhurried excellent meal.

We dined at the table with the view
Then on to the Bladgett Playhouse for our next show, Variety, which they billed as a Branson style musical review.  Of course there's a story here.  Recall that we left Friday's performance of Smoke in the Mountains after 20 minutes.  Curtain up and we quickly discover several of the same cast members from the previous (sophomoric) performance.  We look at each other, laugh and without saying a word, know that we may be departing in minutes.  Surprise, surprise.  Tonight they were GREAT.  While they are not good actors, they did sing and dance well. 

Written by Les (one day after the events)