We cross our wake - Sheboygan to Chicago

Today we crossed our wake, which accoding to the AGLCA (American Great Loop Cruisers Association), is the event that defines the official moment of completing the Great Loop.  Here are the details of the final journey.

We awoke Wednesday morning to an unusual sight, five flags, four at rest in calm winds and one outstretched.  Look closely and you can see that the flag on the right is stuck to the adjacent flag pole.

Proceeding with our plan to return to Chicago for our friend's son's funeral, we departed Sheboygan early Wednesday morning (September 5) with the goal of stopping in Port Washington for the cheapest diesel fuel on Lake Michigan and then on to Milwaukee.

Morning at Sheboygan, WI

Conditions were perfect for the three hour run to Port Washington.  High overcast with a forecast for light southeast winds and a calm lake. Running at 9 MPH we arrived in Port Washington at 10:30 AM. where we took on 215 gallons of diesel at $3.93 per gallon.

An hour later, at 11:30, we departed Port Washington and headed for Milwaukee.  Two hours after that, just north of our destination, we changed our plan and decided to bypass Milwaukee and proceed to Racine approximately 30 miles to the south. 

Windpoint Light just north of Racine Harbor

We arrived at Racine's Reef Point Marina at 4:45 PM.  This second 46 mile segment took approximately five and a half hours.  Except for the last two hours when seas picked up a bit (1 to 3), the trip was on a calm waters.  The total miles for the day were 74 and the total time on the water just under 9 hours.

Guided Discovery at Reefpoint Marina in Racine Wisconsin

Following a walk into town with the Furry Kid, we had dinner at Waves, another one of our favorite restaurants.  (Note: In our 11 seasons of Lake Michigan cruising we have many favorite ports and restaurants).

Diana, Kodi and Les in front of Waves

On Thurday morning we awoke to a perfect morning, sunny with unlimited visibility and 10 to 15 MPH offshore winds out of the northwest.  With offshore winds the lake would be perfect for a cruise to Chicago.  We checked the weather forecast which suggested that Thursday was a weather window and that conditions for the next week would not be as good.  We decided to end our cruise with a final leg to Chicago.

Morning on the final day or four Great loop Adventure

Departing at 7:30 AM, we proceeded south at our favorite 9 MPH cruising speed.  
 

Enjoying the final cruise to Chicago before the flies arrived

Everything would have been perfect for this final cruise had it not been for the flies.  The 10 MPH north wind at our back and our similar southerly speed resulted in no air movement on the boat.  This in combination with our closeness to shore attracted the flies.  Interestingly, we have screens for our camper canvas, which, had we employed them at the trip's start, would have kept the flies out.  Hindsight is 20/20.

Diana and Kodi solved the problem by going below and watching TV (at least Diana did).  I toughed it out, after putting on long pants, and stayed at the helm.  The camper screens work best when you employ them at the first signs of investation.  Fly infestations, at least from my experience, are a Lake Michigan phenomenon.  We did not encounter a fly problem of this magnitute during the 6,150 miles of our Great Loop adventure.

Side story:  In 1984 I bought my first boat, a 38 ft Hatteras FBDC (Fly Bridge Double Cabin).  Unable to get a slip in Chicago, I found a nice one in Michigan City, 45 miles southeast of Chicago by water (and 90 minutes by car).  I took delivery of the boat, which was berthed in Burnham Harbor, and cruised to Michigan City on a lovely early summer day with my Ex and 1 year old daughter.  About 5 miles out the flies arrived, apparently for a convention.  In short order, the boat was literally covered with aggressive flies.  We abandoned the flybridge and proceed into the cabin.  Fortunately, the boat had dual controls and could be operated from the cabin.  Unfortunately, we had left the cabin door open.  For the next three hours we killed flies.  Surprisingly as we got close to Michigan City the flies departed.  By the time we docked the flies were gone.  This first boating experience on Lake Michigan left me wondering if this is what Lake Michigan boating was all about.  The good news.  Except for today's trip south from Racine, I never experienced a similar fly problem.

At 10:25 AM the skyline of Chicago appeared on the horizon.

Chicago ahead.  We are almost home

At 12:25 PM we passed the Bahai Temple, a prominent Lake Michigan landmark.  We were now less than 10 miles from home.

Bahai Temple

At 1:25 PM we turned west into Belmont Harbor.

Pulling into Belmont Harbor - almost home

Slip I-24 is just off the starboard bow

And 5 minutes later at 1:30 PM, we pulled into our slip and officially, after 6,150 miles and 442 days on the water, crossed our wake and completed the Great Loop.

We did it!!!!!!!!

Final Phase II Statistics (Branford CT to Chicago IL):

• 1,580    Miles Traveled - July 2 to September 6, 2012
•    953    Total Gallons Used
•    1.66   MPG Fuel Efficiency
•      72    Locks
•      45    Cities Visited

Final Great Loop Statistics (Chicago to Chicago):

• 6,151   Total Miles - October 3, 2010 to September 6, 2012 
• 5,792   Total Gallons of Diesel Used
•      99   Total Locks
• $3.72   Average Cost of Fuel
•   1.06   MPG Fuel Efficiency
•   442    Days on the Great Loop
• $212    Average Cost Per Day
•   135    Cities Visited
•     11    States and Provinces Visited

Financial Statistics (Chicago to Chicago):

• $21,351  Fuel
• $33,775  Dockage
• $14,879  Repairs
• $22,194  Maintenance
• $  1,488  Misc. Boat Related Purchases
• $93,689  Total Expenditure

Guided Discovery at home in Belmont Harbor

After 23 months and 3 days Guided Discovery was finally back in her slip and we were back in our favorite city.

After securing the boat (which required getting out our heavy 50 ft 50 AMP extention cord) Diana, Kodi and I walked home from Belmont Harbor (3 miles) stopping at another favorite restaurant, the Basil Leaf on Clark Street, for a lovely mid afternoon dinner.   A fitting end to a spectacular experience.

Written by Les



Door County Adventures - Sturgeon Bay to Sheboygan

We arrived in Sturgeon Bay on the 28th around 9:00 PM after an easy crossing of Lake Michigan.  We spent the morning at the Harbor Club, took a long walk through town and then decided to head for Fish Creek.  Motivation.  Well, we've never been there and there was a remote possibility of selling the boat. 

We departed Sturgeon Bay at 1:00 PM, headed west to Green Bay (the bay not the city) and cruised north at 8 MPH for just under three hours close in along the beautiful Door County shoreline.

We docked at the Alibi Marina, which is located adjacent to Fish Creek's the lovely commercial district.  Unfortunately, we took only one photo.  However, that photo (below) of  an old pre WWII Buick captures the essence of Fish Creek.  This is the quintessential coastal town.  Great shops, hotels and lots of good restaurants.

Prewar Buick parked at Alibi Docks

We stayed in Fish Creek for two days to allow Richard, the potential buyer, to see the boat up close.  Some background.  We met Richard and Kim when we were docked in Bing Inlet (Ontario, Canada).  Richard and I chatted about cruising while I showed him Guided Discovery's great navigation system.  We then saw them again at Mackinaw City Marina's gas dock.  While saying hello, Kim asked if we were interested in selling the boat.  Subsequently, we agreed on terms and agreed to bring to boat to Fish Creek.

Richard and several of his friends inspected the boat on Saturday morning and seemed to like what they saw. 

Immediately after showing the boat decided to return to Sturgeon Bay as a north wind was roughening up the bay.

Note: Unfortunately, Richard changed the terms several days later and we were unable to make a deal.

Even though the waves were running 2 to 3 feet, the three hour cruise back to Sturgeon Bay was easy due to a following sea.  We arrived back at the Harbor Club around noon and spent a relaxed afternoon reading on the back of the boat.  We were also serenaded by a band performing at a wedding at the hotel just across the ship channel.  We then had a spectacular dinner at the Inn at Cedar Crossing (a favorite restaurant).

View of the hotel across the ship channel

A word about Sturgeon Bay.  Having visited many cities on our almost 6,000 mile journey that had been negatively inpacted by factory closings, it was nice to be in a city where industry seemed to be alive and well.

Large tug in dry dock at Sturgeon Bay

Sturgeon Bay is home to Palmer Johnson, a builder of large luxury yachts. Palmer Johnson is currently building two boats; a 220 footer and a 170 footer. Adjacent to Palmer is a large ship repair facility. 

220 footer under construction at Palmer Johnson

Note: The hanger where the 220 footer was being built is not on the water.  This boat needs to move at least 500 feet over land to reach the canal.  Locals say it a big deal when they "splash" a boat.

On Labor Day we departed for Manitowoc Wisconsin.  Again we cruised at a relaxed 9 MPH for 6 hours arriving in at the Manitowoc Marina at 5:00 PM.  We initially experienced 2 to 3 foot waves on the beam, which diminished, just as forecast, to less than 1 foot as the day progressed.

Our location on Lake Michigan

We stayed in Manitowoc overnight.  Manitowoc is an industrial town that, unfortunately, like other towns we visited, has lost industry.  Fortunately, they still have a large Anhauser Bush brewery which sits right on the lake.

Anhauser Bush brewery

The city also has a large modern maritime museum.  During WWII the Manitowoc Ship Building Company build 28 submarines, one of which sits in the channel adjacent to the museum.  Check out the history in the photo below.

WWII Submarine originally built in Manitowoc

Early Tuesday morning, Kodi and I took a 4 mile exploratory walk through Manitowoc.  During the walk, as is our custom, we talk with the locals to get a sense of the community and it economic health.  One resident told us about the Mirro plant that had closed several years ago (2003), costing the city a large number of jobs when the jobs were moved overseas.  The massive Mirro facility now sits uninhabited and an unpleasant reminder of the cities plight.  Mirro manufacturered aluminium cookware.


Closed Mirro plant

We headed for Sheboygan at 9:00 AM just after Kodi and I returned to the boat.  Conditions were favorable with light westerly winds (5 MPH) which gave us swells running at less than 1 foot for the 26 mile run.  For the first hour we experienced fog with visibilty as low as 1/2 mile, which rapidly improved to 5 miles in haze during the three hour run.

Fog bank visible as we departed Manitowoc

Upon arrival we took a walk into downtown Sheboygan to have lunch at one of our favorite restaurants, Il Ritrovo. On the way we stopped to examine two vintage automobiles in the Martin Automotive showroom, one of which was a prewar Pontiac.

As usual, our official Social Director, Kodi got us into a conversation with Martin's manager.  Martin was a Pontiac dealer who dropped the franchise years before the Pontiac brand was eliminated by GM.  I've always been curious about about why that occured and thanks to Kodi I got the unabridged story. The dealerhip now sells used GM cars and provides service to their customer base.

We then enjoyed lunch on the deck at Il Ritrovo.  This is a unique restaurant, which also provides high end deli foods and a great wine selection. 

Sheboygan is Kholer country.  The Kholer factory is just five miles out of town and appears to be doing very well (i.e., few vacant stores).  This is one very together city.

After lunch we continued our walk.  Our pleasant day was interupted by the news that our friend's son had taked his own life.  This tragic news altered our plans.  We previouly decided to continue our slow cruise back to Chicago touching base at some of our favorite ports along the western shore (Port Washington, Milwaukee, Racine and Kenosha).  Since the funeral was scheduled for Friday, we contemplated cruising to Milwaukee on Wednesday, getting a rental car and returning home for a long weekend and then retuning to Milwaukee to continue cruising.  That plan changed when a the forecast suggested a perfect weather for a cruise back to Chicago on Thursday.  More on that in our next article.

Written by Les.