Crossing Lake Michigan - Leland, MI to Sturgeon Bay, WI

Crossing Lake Michigan is always a challenge. 

Basic facts: Lake Michigan is the only Great Lake wholly within the borders of the United States. It has a surface area of 22,400 square miles making it the largest lake entirely within one country by surface area, and the fifth largest lake in the world. It is 307 miles long by 118 miles wide with a shoreline 1,640 miles long. The lake's average depth is 279 ft, while its greatest depth is 923 ft. Its surface averages 577 feet above sea level, the same as Lake Huron, to which it is connected through the Straits of Mackinac.

Lake Michigan can be as calm as a mill pond or with high velocity (30 MPH plus) northeast or southwest winds it can easily produce 10 foot wind driven waves.    In the winter, northeast gales can produce waves as high as 20 feet.  Did I mention that Lake Michigan can be challenging?

The weather on Monday indicated a window for crossing on Tuesday.  The forecast called for 10 to 15 MPH northwest winds in the morning diminishing to light and variable (5 to 10 MPH) after noon.  One to three foot waves were forecasted in the morning diminishing during the day to less than 1 foot.

That forecast persuaded us to move south to Leland to put us in position for a Tuesday crossing.  As discussed in the previous article, we had a smooth 35 mile trip.

As evening came on Monday the winds calmed.  We thought we had it made.  Then, all of a sudden, around 8:00 PM, the winds started blowing briskly out of the north.  Oops.

The winds were still blowing out of the north when we awoke in the morning and the American flag was fully outstretched; indicating at least a 15 MPH wind.  Whitecaps were visible on the waters just outside the Leland harbor rock wall.  We estimated the morning wave heights at 2 to 3 feet.

We decided to wait and see if the forecast, which remained essentially unchanged from Monday, would hold up.  We were expecting the winds would start to diminish as the morning progressed.

Kodi got to go swimming in Lake Leelanau and we had a lovely breakfast at the Earlybird Restaurant.  By 11 the flag indicated the winds were diminishing although there still whitecaps.

We departed at 11:24 and headed west into the Manitou Passage at 9.2 MPH (1030 RPM, 4.7 GPH) .  The waves were running 1 to 3 foot of the starboard beam.  45 minutes later we turned 21 degrees south and, as we progressed through the passage, the waves diminished as we benefited from the protection of the Manitou Islands.

Two hours and 15 minutes into the trip we turned 21 degrees north (267 degrees) and headed for the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal some 57 miles across the lake.  By the time we made the turn the winds had diminished and waves were down to 1 foot.  For the next 6 hours the conditions continued to improve.  We never made it to a mill pond but it was a very smooth rides.  Bottom line: Conditions were just a forcasted.

At 7:38 PM we passed the pier head light and entered the ship canal.  We cruised west through the canal's four mile no wake zone to Sturgeon Bay.  The only glitch, very slight, was waiting for the Michigan Avenue Bridge which opens on the hour and half hour.  At 8:31 we passed under the bridge and turned into the Harbor Club Marina.

Coast Guard Station at the beginning of the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal

The marina staff quits at 5:00 PM  so we had no help on the dock.  No problem.  After 13 years and over 20,000 miles of cruising, Diana and I have no difficulty docking the boat without help.

Trip Statistics:

•       83   Miles Covered
•       39   Gallons Used
•      1.8   MPG
•      8.8   MPH
•    9:19  Time Enroute

Crossing the Lake is so stressful

Statistics since leaving Branford Connecticut for Phase II:

• 1,318    Miles Traveled Since 7/2/12
•    814    Total Gallons Used (includes sea trial)
•     1.6    MPG Fuel Efficiency
•      72    Locks
•      35    Cities Visited

Great Loop Statistics at Sturgeon Bay, WI:

• 5,889   Total Miles since 10/3/10 
• 5,634   Total Gallons of Diesel Used
•      99   Total Locks
• $3.72   Average Cost of Fuel
•   $84    Average Daily Cost of Dockage
•   433    Days on the Great Loop
• $213    Average Cost Per Day
•   130    Cities Visited

Written by Les.

It's all about the wind - Charlevoix to Leland, MI

We departed today (Monday 8/27 at 9:30AM) for Leland, MI after spending five lovely days in Charlevoix, our favorite port on Lake Michigan.  Thanks to 5 to 10 MPH winds from the west, the 36 mile four hour run was made on seas less than 1 foot.  What a difference from our first run on Lake Michigan six days ago.

Leland is an artificial "harbor of refuge" build by the Federal Government circa 1965 that sits between Charlevoix to the north and Frankfort some 30 miles to the south.  It is provides a safe harbor for small boats in stormy weather in the center of a 70 mile stretch of water.  With Leland, the eastern shore of Lake Michigan has ports approximately 30 miles apart for almost 300 miles.

The town itself is small and the commercial district sits adjacent to the harbor.  Despite its size, the shops are very together.  There is also a small but very well stocked grocery store right by the harbor.  Best of al,l within walking distance, there are no less than five very nice restaurants. 

Historic Fishtown

The major attraction is Historic Fishtown, a group of charming rustic shops at the south end of the harbor.  Fishtown looks like a shanty town for the 19th century.  The dam at the head of the harbor allows water from Lake Leelanau to flow into Lake Michigan. 

lake Leelanau Dam looking toward Lake Michigan

Lake Leelanau is a large inland lake less than half a mile east of Lake Michigan, which is not accessible from the big lake.  It has 41 miles of shoreline.  We have in past years rode our bikes around Leelanau.

We've stopped at Leland many times in our years of cruising Lake Michigan.

Side story: In 2006, less than a month after taking delivery of our new 48, we were starting our trip back to Chicago after visiting our favorite ports on Little Travis Bay.  The water was calm and we were running at 30 MHP when all of a sudden we heard an engine alarm.  We immediately shut down the engines and looked into the engine room.  Big problem.  The port engine was covered with black oil.  It was obvious we had incurred a major oil system failure.

Fortunately, we were about 10 miles north of Leland when the failure occured.  After determining that the port engine was not operational, we proceeded to Leland on the starboard engine.  We called the harbor and notified them that we were in trouble and they told us they would be waiting for us at their the gas dock.  Enroute we also called the dealership, Skipper Buds, to report the problem.  We were fortunate to reach Denny Ellerbrock, the Sr VP.

This story has an amazingly happy ending to what could have been a nightmare (a major breakdown in a small town miles from any big city).  Skipper Buds (Denny) was amazing.  He arranged for one of their delivery captains at the dock before we arrived, arranged to have the oil cleaned up (10 hours work for two men - $1,000) the next day and arranged to have Cummins, the engine manufacturer, have a technician on the job the day after the cleanup. 

Failed Oil Cooler Housing

The problem was diagnosed as a hairline crack between two bolts on the oil cooler housing caused by a faulty casting.  The three inch fracture caused approximately 3 gallons (of 6 in the crankcase) to spray out under intense pressure  Hence the awful mess in the engine room.  Two days later the boat was repaired and we were on our way.  Kudo to Skipper Buds.

Look close and you can see the crack between the two bolts

Back to the present.  We took a nice hour walk, took Kodi swimming in Lake Leelanau, had a delicious dinner at the Bluebird and facinated a bunch of kids and adults with Kodi's wide range of behaviors.

Kodi swimming 60 yards from the shore on Lake Leelanau

Written by Les.

Another rough crossing - Mackinac Island to Charlevoix

Starting on Monday (8/22), the Lake Michigan open water forecast called for southwest winds of 10 to 15 building as high as 20 to 25 and remaining constant through the weekend.  Winds out of the southwest when you are sitting at Mackinac Island are a real concern.  Again, basic principle, high winds over open waters equal big waves.  The view from Mackinac looking south to Chicago sees 350 miles of open water.

On Wednesday morning the forecast called for southwest winds at 10 to 15 MPH building to 15 to 25 in the afternoon.  Waves at the north midlake weather buoy were 2.0 feet.  Waves at the weather buoy off Charlevoix were 2.3 feet.

We faced several choices.  Stay in Mackinac Island for several days.  This would be an easy choice if it were not for the fixed docks, which make it difficult for Kodi to get on and off the boat.  The other option was to return to the floating docks at Strait State Marina in Mackinaw City and wait out the winds.  The third option, which we took, was to head down the Straits of Mackinac to get a first hand look at conditions with the option of turning back to Mackinaw City, or heading for Harbor Springs, some 55 miles south.  Option three turned out to be a bad choice.

We departed at 9:00 AM and headed west under the Mackinaw Bridge,  Waves as we proceeded west started out at 1 foot and ultimately built to three feet by the time we reached the Abandoned Light just east of the Grays Reef Passage.  We were running at a comfortable 9.0 MPH.  During the first 24 miles we were protected by the shoreline that extends out to the reef. 

Abandoned Light

All that changed when we turned southwest and hit the waves head on.  Now we were dealing with four footers on open water with an occassional six footer.  No fun.  We tried several speeds including 20 MPH with the boat on plane, which resulted in the boat banging on the short frequency waves.  We ultimately settled on 1390 RPM and 10.2 MPH.  This gave us sufficient way without excessive banging.  It also was reasonably efficient at 13 GPH although in big waters fuel economy is not a prime concern.

For the next 75 minutes we plowed through the waves toward Harbor Springs.  At 1:00 we changed our mind and our course by 13 degrees and headed for Charlevoix.  Our decision to extend the trip by approximately 3 miles and 20 mintutes was based on the fact that Harbor Springs could only provide a floating dock for one day while Charlevoix had availability through the weekend. 

Charlevoix is also our FAVORITE port on Lake Michigan.  Prior to retirement we cruised 300 miles from Chicago to Charlevoix at least once per season and many times twice, staying for at least two weeks each visit.   We've made no less that 15 visits, which equals 30 crossings of Lake Michigan.

We docked at the Charlevoix Municipal Marina at 3:00 PM and were greeted by our old friend Hal, the Harbor Manager.  Hal put us on the end of the t-dock with a magnificent view of Round Lake.

Guided Discovery on Round Lake.  The Beaver Island Ferry is just to the right

Below is our list of uncomfortable crossings to date:

• Appalachacola to Tarpon Springs - The Gulf of Mexico
• Oswego to Trenton, Ontario - Lake Ontario
• Parry Sound to Byng Inlet - The Georgian Bay
• Mackinac Island to Charlevoix

Now to Charlevoix.  Charlevoix lies at the western end of Little Travis Bay and touches both Round Lake and Lake Charlevoix.  Round Lake has been called the best natural harbor on Lake Michigan and is the only way to get from Lake Michigan to East Jordan, Boyne City and other sites on Lake Charlevoix by boat. As a result, much commercial, industrial, and recreational boat traffic passes through Charlevoix.

Looking at the east side of Round Lake

Looking at the west side of Found Lake

Charlevoix with its location and a population of 3,000 has it all.  Four great restaurants (Stafford's Weathervane, Terry's Pace, Grey Gables, and Edgewater Bistro), a modern marina with a lighted fountain for kids and a bandshell, a "real" supermarket one block away, great retail downtown and, of course, a fudge shop (as it is a tourist town).

Stafford's Weathervane Restaurant by the bridge

Fountain at the marina lights up at night

On Thursday we took Kodi down to the beach off Little Travis Bay where she went swimming and made a new friend, Buddy.  We also made new friends with the dog's owners, Bob and Ruth who live in a beautiful A-frame overlooking Round Lake.

Bob and Buddy

Bob's Earl Young home overlooking Round Lake

Earl Young is famous for building a group of "fairy tale" mushroom houses around the Boulder Park neighborhood near the city's lakefront starting in 1918.  These homes are really special.

Magnificent Earl Young mushroom home on Round Lake

Round Lake is also a boating paradise that attracts yachts from all over the world.  In fact, the Yorktown docked where Guided Discovery currently sits (a 120 foot t-dock). 

Side story: The oversided (for the dock) 257 foot Yorktown tore out a piling and a cleat.  Noteworthy: Prices for the 11 day Great Lakes Cruise start at $5,000 and go to $8,700. 

91 foot Burger Go Fourth from Delray Beach transitioning Round Lake

Charlevoix is also the home of the Emerald Isle, the ferry that makes two trips per day to Beaver Island, which lies 32 miles to the north west.

Emerald Isle sitting on Round Lake

Another Side Story: When we began the Great Loop adventure we met a gentleman from Charlevoix, John Wynn, at our stop in Peoria.   John was cruising down the western rivers on a 40 ft Silverton with a Charlevoix hailing port.  When I mentioned that Charlevoix was our favorite port and that we greatly admired on particular boat house (see photo below) he revealed that he was the owner.  John and his brothers founded "Four Wynns." a small boat manufacturer.

John Wynn's palatial home and boat house on Round Lake

Just off John Wynn's home is a colorful floating hot dog stand; A Guy, A Gal and A Grill, which is run by a female college student.  Observing from our perch on the t-dock they seemed to be doing a good business. 

Charlevoix really has it all including the best farmers market we've ever seen (that takes place in the park adjacent to the marina).

Farmer's Market with good entertainment

Written by Les.



 

We join the fudgies - Mackinac Island adventures

A little history (borrowed from Wikipedia): Mackinac Island is resort area covering 3.8 square miles of land area on Lake Huron at the eastern end of the Straits of Mackinac. The island was home to a Native American settlement before European exploration began in the 17th century. It served a strategic role in the Great Lakes fur trade. This led to the establishment of Fort Mackinac by the British during the Revolutionary War. It was the scene of two battles during the War of 1812.

In the late 19th century, Mackinac Island became a popular tourist attraction and summer colony. Much of the island has undergone extensive historical preservation and restoration; as a result, the entire island is listed as a National Historic Landmark. It is well known for its numerous cultural events; its wide variety of architectural styles, including the famous Victorian Grand Hotel; its fudge; and its ban on almost all motor vehicles. More than 80 percent of the island is preserved as State Park.

This was our third visit to the Island in the 13 years we've been cruising.  I also flew a Cessna 172 to the island in 1973.

The Grand Hotel as viewed from Guided Discovery enroute to Mackinac Island

Today, 15,000 visitors per day visit the island, almost all by ferry (a few come by private plane and boat).  Vistors, according to Mackinac culture, are known as "fudgies," which relates to the fact that almost everyone who visits the island samples or buys fudge.  There are easily 10 fudge shops on Main Street.

View of the Main Street commercial area

Lake View Hotel on Main Street

Side story: Our cruise was interrupted by the US Goast Guard who attempted to board us for a safety inspection while we were enroute to the island.  Mind you we were trawling at 8 MPH when we passed the Coast Guard boat which then turned on its blue light.  After they refused to acknowledge our Coast Guard Auxillary Courtesy Inspection, we refused to allow them to board until we docked.  They agreed and we contined for another 25 minutes at leisurely let-em-wait 8 miles per hour. Four of them boarded when we arrived and went through their silly routine (which is not as extensive as the Auxillary's).  Needless to say, we meet or exceed all requirements.  Political commentary.  I have been boarded 3 times this year, twice on friends boats in July.  The Coast Guard on Lake Michigan is a pain in the ass, which was not the case on the entire Great Loop route.

Guided Discovery and Jan's Tern at Mackinaw Island State Dock

Fort Mackinac as viewed from the Mackinac Harbor State Dock

We stayed on Mackinac Island for two days.  Highlights included a four mile walk with Kodi, Bicycling around the island, dining with Bob and Jan, shopping (for fudge and t-shirts) and enjoying the island's incredible ambiance.   I'll let the photos tell the story.

View of the harbor and city

Bob and I walked to the Grand Hotel, which requires a $10 per person fee just to walk onto the grounds, which includes the porch and the lobby.  We took a pass.  Per person rates run from $254 for a small room to $723 for a "named" room.

The Grand Hotel

A lovely lady asking for the $10 grounds fee

When we awoke on Tuesday we discovered that the Yorktown, which we saw in Little Current 13 days ago, had docked behind us disgorging lots of fudgies.

Yorktown docked at Mackinac Island

A flag raising ceremony takes place at 9:30 AM each day.  Flags are raised when the cannon on Fort Mackinac booms.  Kodi HATES cannons.  She also hates gunfire, fire crackers, fireworks and thunder.  Mackinac Island was not one of her favorite places.  What added to her discomfort was the fixed docks.  She had to duck under the safety cable in order to get off the boat.

Flag raising ceremony

Kodi and I on the way to Arch Rock

View of the Lake Huron from Arch Rock

Lunch at the Carraige House with Bob and Jan.  A beautiful setting

The Carraige House as viewed from the water's edge

The Grand Hotel's grand carraige outside the Carraige House

A visit to Mackinac Island is not complete without fudge.  So, as a typical "fudgie" we visited several fudge shops to watch the process. 

Pouring the heated ingredients onto a cold marble table

Shaping the fudge as it cools.  An art form

The finished product sliced and ready for the display case

The value of a single slab of fudge is approximately $300 (50 slices).  A slice sells for $6.00.  Let's see, the cream costs X, the choclate costs X, the labor costs X - - you get the picture.

Yes, I broke down and ate fudge.  It was Chocolate Walnut from Joanne's and it was terrific.

Written by Les.

Circling the Straits - Cheboygan to Mackinac Island

A little geography.  Mackinac Island sits at the junction of Lake Huron to the east and Lake Michigan to the west.  Lake Superior is a short cruise up the St Mary's River to the Sault St Marie Locks.  The North Channel lies just east of the St Mary's River.  You might say Mackinac is at the center of the fresh water world.

The Mackinaw Bridge linking the upper and lower peninsular

Our circle of the Straits started when we departed Cheboygan on Saturday (8/18) with Jan's Tern and headed northwest up the South Channel (between Bois Blanc Island and the lower peninsular) 17 miles to Mackinaw City.  The next day we headed 7 miles north running parallel to the magnificant Mackinaw Bridge to St Ignace.  On Monday morning we cruised 6 miles east to Mackinac Island.  The net result was a 30 mile half circle.

Mackinaw City was the first port in 5,701 miles that we had previously visited, albeit 7 or 8 years ago.  It is one of two jumping off places for people visiting Mackinac Island, the other being St Ignace, which we visited for the first time.

Sheplers Mackinaw City ferry operation

The first striking  differenceat Mackinaw City was the the new (2 year old) absolutely first class Straits State municipal marina, which was surprisingly empty.

Straits State Marina showers, bathrooms and laundry facilities

Side story: We docked our 44 Sundancer at Mackinaw City years ago because Mackinac Island was booked solid.  Our strategy we to take the ferry over to the island.  Our visit was complicated by a Tiara rendezvous that took up most of the docks.  We were relegated to the slip at the far end of a very long pier.  This proved incredibly inconvenient when heavy thunderstorms moved into the area while we were doing laundry.  We waited almost an hour for the storms to abate but they did not.  We finally took our laundry and literally ran down the pier getting soaked.  To make matters worse, we had to open the canvas, which was very difficult from a fixed pier in a downpour.  The words "drenched. soaked, drowned" do not quite capture the degree of wet we experienced.

This time the weather was perfect.  We spent the day exploring the "city" and it lovely parks.  Tourists flock to Mackinaw City to take the one of three ferry lines (Star, Shepler and Arnold) to Mackinac Island.  Three ferries leave every half hour transporting thousands for the 15 minute trip to the island.  Many tourists choose to stay in Mackniaw City motels to avoid the $400 or more per day room costs on the island.

Star Line ferry departing for Mackinac Island

Mackinaw City is literally a tourist town designed to entertain folks waiting for their ferry overy to the island.  Fudge shops abound as do t-shirt, apparal, kitch shops and restaurants.

Kodi next to a lab statue

Speaking of entertainment.  A group of approximately 10 people gathered around while Kodi was entertaining a young child.  People were facinated with Kodi' counting skills (she counts reliably to any number between 1 and 5) and other behavoirs.  Later we passed a group of "actors" offerring to arrest people and publically humiliate them (yes I also do not get it) for 100 coins ($1.00).  I watched them for 30 minutes during which time they got no takers.  Kodi and I could have made lots of money if we offered ourselves as street performers.  All I need to do is teach her to take dollar bills out of viewers hands (a 20 minute project).

Actors offerring to arrest and humiliate folks for $1.00

The highlight of my visit was a walk to the 5 mile long Mackinaw Bridge, which is the third longest in the world.  Built bewtween 1955 and 1957 at cost of $100,000,000.  The parks along the route to the bridge contain numerous plaques explaining the rich history of the area, which involves the French, British, Native Americans and the Colonists.
Here was the heart of the fur trade established by John Jacob Astor.

Entrance to the Fort Michilimacinac park

Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse

We ended the day with a spectacular dinner at the Chippewa Room at Audies Restaurant that had to rate as one of the 10 best on our Great Loop adventure.

Antique car used to shuttle people from the motel

Our one day trip to St Ignace was prompted by the fact that we had Monday reservations for Mackinac Island and that this was one of the few ports that Diana and I had not visited during our 10 years of cruising Lake Michigan.  Again we traveled with Bob and Jan from Jan's Tern.

St Ignace, which is also a jumping off point for Mackinac Island, also has the same three ferry companies (Star, Shepler and Arnold) but does not have the motels and shopping facilities of Mackinaw City.  What it did have was a very nice municipal marina and the lowest price diesel ($3.97 compared to $4.43 in area marinas).  We took 241 gallons.

Native American performing in front of a St Ignace gift shop

The next article will cover our two days on Mackinac Island.

Written by Les.