Another rough crossing - Mackinac Island to Charlevoix

Starting on Monday (8/22), the Lake Michigan open water forecast called for southwest winds of 10 to 15 building as high as 20 to 25 and remaining constant through the weekend.  Winds out of the southwest when you are sitting at Mackinac Island are a real concern.  Again, basic principle, high winds over open waters equal big waves.  The view from Mackinac looking south to Chicago sees 350 miles of open water.

On Wednesday morning the forecast called for southwest winds at 10 to 15 MPH building to 15 to 25 in the afternoon.  Waves at the north midlake weather buoy were 2.0 feet.  Waves at the weather buoy off Charlevoix were 2.3 feet.

We faced several choices.  Stay in Mackinac Island for several days.  This would be an easy choice if it were not for the fixed docks, which make it difficult for Kodi to get on and off the boat.  The other option was to return to the floating docks at Strait State Marina in Mackinaw City and wait out the winds.  The third option, which we took, was to head down the Straits of Mackinac to get a first hand look at conditions with the option of turning back to Mackinaw City, or heading for Harbor Springs, some 55 miles south.  Option three turned out to be a bad choice.

We departed at 9:00 AM and headed west under the Mackinaw Bridge,  Waves as we proceeded west started out at 1 foot and ultimately built to three feet by the time we reached the Abandoned Light just east of the Grays Reef Passage.  We were running at a comfortable 9.0 MPH.  During the first 24 miles we were protected by the shoreline that extends out to the reef. 

Abandoned Light

All that changed when we turned southwest and hit the waves head on.  Now we were dealing with four footers on open water with an occassional six footer.  No fun.  We tried several speeds including 20 MPH with the boat on plane, which resulted in the boat banging on the short frequency waves.  We ultimately settled on 1390 RPM and 10.2 MPH.  This gave us sufficient way without excessive banging.  It also was reasonably efficient at 13 GPH although in big waters fuel economy is not a prime concern.

For the next 75 minutes we plowed through the waves toward Harbor Springs.  At 1:00 we changed our mind and our course by 13 degrees and headed for Charlevoix.  Our decision to extend the trip by approximately 3 miles and 20 mintutes was based on the fact that Harbor Springs could only provide a floating dock for one day while Charlevoix had availability through the weekend. 

Charlevoix is also our FAVORITE port on Lake Michigan.  Prior to retirement we cruised 300 miles from Chicago to Charlevoix at least once per season and many times twice, staying for at least two weeks each visit.   We've made no less that 15 visits, which equals 30 crossings of Lake Michigan.

We docked at the Charlevoix Municipal Marina at 3:00 PM and were greeted by our old friend Hal, the Harbor Manager.  Hal put us on the end of the t-dock with a magnificent view of Round Lake.

Guided Discovery on Round Lake.  The Beaver Island Ferry is just to the right

Below is our list of uncomfortable crossings to date:

• Appalachacola to Tarpon Springs - The Gulf of Mexico
• Oswego to Trenton, Ontario - Lake Ontario
• Parry Sound to Byng Inlet - The Georgian Bay
• Mackinac Island to Charlevoix

Now to Charlevoix.  Charlevoix lies at the western end of Little Travis Bay and touches both Round Lake and Lake Charlevoix.  Round Lake has been called the best natural harbor on Lake Michigan and is the only way to get from Lake Michigan to East Jordan, Boyne City and other sites on Lake Charlevoix by boat. As a result, much commercial, industrial, and recreational boat traffic passes through Charlevoix.

Looking at the east side of Round Lake

Looking at the west side of Found Lake

Charlevoix with its location and a population of 3,000 has it all.  Four great restaurants (Stafford's Weathervane, Terry's Pace, Grey Gables, and Edgewater Bistro), a modern marina with a lighted fountain for kids and a bandshell, a "real" supermarket one block away, great retail downtown and, of course, a fudge shop (as it is a tourist town).

Stafford's Weathervane Restaurant by the bridge

Fountain at the marina lights up at night

On Thursday we took Kodi down to the beach off Little Travis Bay where she went swimming and made a new friend, Buddy.  We also made new friends with the dog's owners, Bob and Ruth who live in a beautiful A-frame overlooking Round Lake.

Bob and Buddy

Bob's Earl Young home overlooking Round Lake

Earl Young is famous for building a group of "fairy tale" mushroom houses around the Boulder Park neighborhood near the city's lakefront starting in 1918.  These homes are really special.

Magnificent Earl Young mushroom home on Round Lake

Round Lake is also a boating paradise that attracts yachts from all over the world.  In fact, the Yorktown docked where Guided Discovery currently sits (a 120 foot t-dock). 

Side story: The oversided (for the dock) 257 foot Yorktown tore out a piling and a cleat.  Noteworthy: Prices for the 11 day Great Lakes Cruise start at $5,000 and go to $8,700. 

91 foot Burger Go Fourth from Delray Beach transitioning Round Lake

Charlevoix is also the home of the Emerald Isle, the ferry that makes two trips per day to Beaver Island, which lies 32 miles to the north west.

Emerald Isle sitting on Round Lake

Another Side Story: When we began the Great Loop adventure we met a gentleman from Charlevoix, John Wynn, at our stop in Peoria.   John was cruising down the western rivers on a 40 ft Silverton with a Charlevoix hailing port.  When I mentioned that Charlevoix was our favorite port and that we greatly admired on particular boat house (see photo below) he revealed that he was the owner.  John and his brothers founded "Four Wynns." a small boat manufacturer.

John Wynn's palatial home and boat house on Round Lake

Just off John Wynn's home is a colorful floating hot dog stand; A Guy, A Gal and A Grill, which is run by a female college student.  Observing from our perch on the t-dock they seemed to be doing a good business. 

Charlevoix really has it all including the best farmers market we've ever seen (that takes place in the park adjacent to the marina).

Farmer's Market with good entertainment

Written by Les.