Monday, January 31, 2011

Now the Atlantic - Day 122 - Key West to Marathon, FL

We awoke early to a beautiful morning.  Partly sunny skies, light winds and temperatures in the mid 60s.  As is our custom, we first checked Weather Underground for Chicago where we found 21 degrees, overcast and a forecast for heavy snow Tuesday through Wednesday.

Given our dual goals of exploring the Keys and reaching Miami for the boat show by February 16, we decided it was time to move eastward.  The forecast called for 2 foot waves in the Hawk Channel, which is on the Atlantic side of the Keys.

Preparation this morning included retrieving the dingy, which we had to off load in order to get off the boat.  Notice in the photo below that we are tied stern-to to the dock.  We accomplished the retrieval by pulling Guided Discovery into the gas dock and loading the dingy from there. 

Guided Discovery stern-to a floating dock at A&B Marina
We departed at 9:10 and headed west and then south around Ket West to intersect with Hawk Channel.  Hawk Channel runs east and west along the keys just inside of a reef that runs parallel with the Keys.  The reef provides shelter from the Atlantic, which translates into smaller wave heights within the channel. 

The run from Mile Marker 1240 to 1195 (45 miles) took just under two hours and was relatively smooth with 2 foot waves coming from the southeast (i.e., off the starboard bow with no spray).  The only challenge was dodging numerous of crab pots that the fisherman had diabolically located along the chart's sailing line.  At 25 miles an hour the pots come up quick and due their size are hard to see.  Diana and I teamed up to ensure we missed them all, which we did.

Boot Key Harbor
We entered Boot Key Harbor at 11:38 AM, stopped at Marathon Marina to pump out and then proceeded an 1/8th of a mile to Burdines where Diana had arranged dockage.  Burdines features a neat restaurant above the marina where we had lunch and the best key lime pie ever.

Burdines Marina and Restaurant
The only difficult part of this trip was pulling the boat into the slip.  The fairway was particularly narrow, maybe 60 feet, and the pilings were just over 15 feet apart.  Guided Discovery's beam is 14 feet 8 inches making this a tricky maneuver.  Fortunately, we had calm winds.

Guided Discovery in another very narrow slip
No sooner had we secured the boat than Diana discovered Elegante, a magnificent 63 foot motor yacht built by Whitgar circa late 50s.   In the late 50s I worked three summers as first mate on a 65 foot Wheeler that was practicaly identical to Elegante.  She brought back fond memories.  We chatted with the owners and learned that they had brought her down the Western Rivers from Harbor Springs, Michigan as captain and mate and then had purchased her from their boss.  Rarely do you find a wooden boat in such pristine condition.

Note: The new owners told us that Mr Whitgar, the builder, who just turned 100 and had recently visited the boat declared that she didn't look this good when she was christened.

Elegante, a 63 foot Whitgar build in the late 50s
One reason that we visited Marathon was to link up with our friends Sue and Darryl from Present Moment who we had met in early November in Florence, Alabama.  We walked over to the Marathon Marina, located their boat and knocked on the "door" (actually the hull).  We then spent the next hour catching up on adventures.  Then, we walked back to Burdines where we joined them for drinks and dinner with other Looper friends they had met.  I sat next to Pete and Anna, a young couple who started the Loop in May from Nantucket, MA.




Before dinner we caught a beautiful sunset.  Old friends, new friends, perfect weather and a beautiful sunset.  What a way to end another spectacular day.

Sunset looking west from Boot Key Harbor
Written by Les.

Key West Adventures - Day 116 to 121 - Key West Florida

My first impression of Key West was of a very touristy place.  There were three big cruise ships docked and hundreds (thousands?) of people on Duval Street.   But by evening the cruise ships left and KW became a laid back island again.

We stayed at A&B Marina right along the Harbor Walk and a block or two to Duval Street.



The first order of duty is to walk Kodi when we "land".   Immediately I saw pelicans sitting on the dock posts.  They are graceful in the air, swoop down fast for fish, and look fat and lazy when they are sitting on the posts.  I really like them!


Next surprise were the chickens.  I guess everyone else knows about the chickens on KW, but I didn't.  Of course, they drove Kodi wild!!


Reminiscent of Beatles Crossing Road
It is nice to see flowers in bloom all over in January.



The next day we walked to the Southernmost Point of the United States.  Wow.  Mile Marker 0.





It is the part of the island with nice beaches.  We had lunch at, what else, the Southernmost Cafe.




Kodi got to romp in a nearby dog park  ..  there were two sections, this one for small dogs.


Gosh we walked a lot over the next few days.  We went to Mallory Square almost every evening to see the sun set.  It is a combination of Washington Square in NYC and an island resort.  There are entertainers.

Lots of people.
Courtesy of Les taking pictures from dingy one night
And beautiful sunsets.


The two most notable attractions on Key West were the Little White House.


And the Hemingway House which he lived in from 1931 to 1939 when he got divorced from his second wife, Pauline.




There are still many descendants of Hemingway's polydachtal cat on the grounds.



After a couple of days, I gave in to doing what I thought was a really touristy "Conch Train" ride.



Actually, it turned out to be very interesting.  Seems many historic events happened on KW among which were:  interment of seamen from the sinking of the Battleship Maine in Havana Harbor, the Union holding KW during the Civil War, of course WWI and II many pilots were trained from KW, there was the Cuban Missile Crisis and the Mariel Air Lift, and last but not least today's "War on Drugs."   KW has been a busy place!

This blog post doesn't even begin to capture the nightlife.    We took a picture of the oldest bar in KW where Hemingway hung out.


So readers, pack a couple of Hemingway novels, come down and enjoy the sun on KW, and sleep late after a night listening to music at Sloppy Joe's and drinking some rum and Coke.

Written by Diana.

ACTIVITIES BY DAY:

1/25 - Tuesday & Wednesday.  Exploring on foot, Southernmost point photo, discovered doggie park

1/27 - Thursday.  Mallory Square to see sunset that was hidden behind clouds, the Conch Tour

1/27 - Thursday.  LTS dingy exploration

1/28 - Friday.  Little White House, Hemingway House

1/29 - Saturday. Searching for a watch battery, Kodi's nails, Magnificent sunset from the water

1/30 - Sunday.  Long walk ending at Casa Marina

Monday, January 24, 2011

Dodging crab pots - Day 115 - Naples to Key West, FL

The cruise from Naples to Key West is the second open ocean crossing on this final leg of our Gulf Coat adventure (the first being Apalachicola to Tarpon Springs).  It is also the second longest crossing.

We awoke to 55 degrees and partly sunny skies.  Our goal today was Key West and based on the forecast we had a reasonable weather window.  The marine forecast today required us to consider both the forecast for Naples and Key West, which is over 100 miles south and west of Naples.

The marine forecast for Naples called for winds out of the northeast at 10 to 15 with 2 foot seas.  The forecast for Key West called for east northeast winds 10 to 20 with seas 4 to 6 beyond the reef and 2 to 4 inside the reef.  The possibility for the issuance of a small craft advisory was also mentioned.  The local Key West forecast called for 20 to 30 knot winds from the east and possible rain or thunderstorms. 

The bigger picture showed a low pressure center just to the west of New Orleans with a trailing cold front making its way across the Gulf.  This suggested the potential for the small craft advisory as the cold front moves further east.

Not perfect, but reasonable given two important considerations.  The first and most important was the direction of the waves, which according to our Sirius Satellite Weather system showed a northerly direction.  This would give us a following or quartering sea.  The second is Guided Discovery's speed.  At 30 MPH we can cover the 100 miles of open ocean in a little over three hours, which lessens the chance of the weather changing enroute.

So, with all that in mind we departed Naples at 8:03 AM and headed south down Naples Bay.  26 minutes later we had covered the 3.4 miles to Gordon Pass and the open waters of the Gulf.  The run down the bay is loaded with beautiful homes.

At 9:29 AM, we entered the Gulf waters and headed south for G1, the entrance to the Northwest Channel off Key West.  The waves off Naples were less than 2 feet as forecasted.  We set our course of 187 degrees for the 99.7 statute mile trip to G1.  In a perfect world (aka crossing Lake Michigan), we would have placed a waypoint on our target and engaged the "track" autopilot function (which corrects for wind and current allowing the boat to virtually steer itself).  Then, we would have sat back and occassionally watched the sea, which on Lake Michigan is easy as there is almost no debris or obstacles and very few boats crossing the lake.

Not so on the Gulf.  No sooner than we got up to speed, we started dodging crab pots, which were ubiquitous.  There were so many crab pots that I was only able to use the track function for about 30 minutes and those engagements were not continuous.  Dodging crab pots at 30 MPH is challenging.  First the crab pots are small floating objects slightly bigger than a large soft ball thus making them hard to see.  The problem is exacerbated by colors that are dark and blend into the sea.  Add to that a little sun and a few waves and, well, you get it.

Note: Hitting a crab pot is really not an option as the line can get wound around the prop and/or the "pot" can damage the prop.  Some readers will recall that we have marine spurs (line cutters), which are designed to cut these lines.  However, these are clearly the back up plan.  While the spur can cut the line you can still get prop damage.

The secret to avoiding crab pots is a constantly scanning.  The only saving grace is that the pots are laid out in a line approximately 75 feet apart.  What we observed is that the lines are laid on a northwest southeast line.  Hence the key is scanning for the line and then cutting through between any two pots.  Fortunately our course cut more or less perpendicular through the lines.

Diana and I worked together to spot the pots and we did so with great success (i.e., we missed them all).

Note: My theory was that once we got into deeper water the pots would disappear.  No such luck.  We were dodging pots 50 miles offshore in 50 feet.

The run from Gordon Pass to G1 took three and a half hours.  As we moved south southwest the waves started to build from two feet to four feet (with a occasional rogue 5).  Fortunately, the waves were off our port stern giving us a following sea and a reasonably soft ride.  The east wind added a wet ride as the boat surfed the bigger waves.

The right hand screen shows us moving offshore
Note: You can see the wave direction in the short arrows.  Notice that the waves change to a more easterly directions as you get closer to Key West.  The longer line symbols represent the direction of the wind while the hashes represent velocity of the wind.  Each longer ones represents 10 knots.  The shorter ones 5 knots.

Spray from the east wind. Note the two boats approaching from the south
At 12:23 PM, we passed G1 at the entrance to the Northwest Channel.  We had covered 100 miles of open water where for most of the trip we were more than 40 miles from shore.


Buoy G1 marking the end of our open water crossing
Eleven minutes later we turned north into the ship channel and passed three large cruise ships docked on the west end of the Key.



At 1:00 PM we were tied up at A&B Marina's fuel dock where we took on 183.8 gallons of fuel (at $3.68 per gallon, the highest we've paid to date).  Our fast crossing burned a lot of fuel (yielding a .60 MPG efficiency).  Still, it was great getting to Key West before the storms or the seas building higher.

When we moved to our slip we discovered a few challenges.  First, we had to pull in stern to a floating dock.  The floating dock is good news as we would not have to deal with tides.  The fact that there were no fingers, however, added a challenge.  Recall that the dingy is carried on our hydraulic swim platform.  Once tied up, we discovered that we could not get off the boat.  So, with the help of the dock hand we dropped the dingy into the water and tied it up next to the fuel dock.  Problem solved but it took two of to do it in close quarters.

Guided Discovery stern to a floating dock
After giving the boat a quick bath to wash off the salt water we took Kodi and looked for a place to eat.  We found the boardwalk around A&B Marina to be quite picturesque.


Just across the harbor we had lunch alfresco at The Schooner Wharf Bar and listened to their singer.  It was a charming place with some interesting characters.  Best part was Kodi could sit by our table.  She created quite a stir as many folks strolling on the boardwalk asked to pet her.  She was in dog heaven.



Patrons in costume
We took an evening walk down Duval Street, which reminded us of Mackinac Island on steroids.  It just goes on and on.



Diana had earlier found a VERY unique desert restaurant, called "Better than Sex."  We stopped there and split a peanut butter indulgence entited PERVERT.  It was a delicious end to a perfect day.




We plan to stay here until Friday.  There is lots to see and do and, of course, we have summer in the dead of winter.  Stay tuned for adventures.

Written by Les.

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Adventures in Naples (not Italy) - Days 112 to 114 - Naples, FL

Great weather, great restaurants, great ambiance and great times characterized our time in Naples.

Thursday (1/20), was the first day since leaving Chicago when we had all the camper windows off.  The temperature at 10:00 AM was in the mid 70s. 

Diana and I waiting for Jim and Jane.  Note all of the camper windows are off
Today we were joined by Jim and Jane Fotopopolis, Sophocles's uncle who were snowbirding on Marco Island.  Jim and Jane arrived at 1:00 PM and we dingied off to lunch at the Tavern on the Bay.

Approaching the dock at our destination, The Tavern on the Bay

Jim, Les and Jane

The group in front of the Tavern on the Bay
Jim and Jane graciously spent the afternoon helping us resupply.  We started with a visit to Whole Foods in North Naples on US41, the Tamiami Trail.  We got everything we needed, including some bottles of Mount Veeder 2007.  Surprisingly, Whole Foods dd not have my favorite LaCroix bubbly water.  We then we visited Wynns, a Whole Foods type market.  Surprisingly, they did not carry LaCroix.  We then back tracked to Publix where I got the last five 12 packs, which were hidden before the flavored versions.  Hurrah.

We returned to the boat, relaxed and had some wine.  Jim wanted me to try a $10 bottle on wine called Menage et Trois that he bought at Whole Foods.  Rarely do I enjoy cheap wine but this one was a surprise.  What's not surprising is that Jim was onto this wine.  He owns two liquor stores back in the Chicago area.

Dinner just down the dock at the Wharf Restaurant ended a very enjoyable day.

Note the boat in the background
Friday and Saturday we relaxed and enjoyed our marina and the Naples area.  Activities included long walks with Kodi, a dingy ride exploring the canals off Naples Bay (with Kodi) and a spectacular dinner at Vergina on 5th street where we dine alfresco (without Kodi) and watched the heavy iron cruise down 5th Avenue. 

Kodi in her favorite position on the dingy

Speactacular architecture on one of the canals
Here are a few photos of the Naples Boat Club, one of the nicest marinas we've visited:




The marina is part of the condo development

Wharf Restaurant

The walk to the dock from the Wharf Restaurant

The heated pool

Club house with full size PRISTINE pool table
We also completed defrosting the refrigerator, a task required every 90 to 120 days.  What made it easy was the ability to store our stuff in the club house's refrigerator.

We awoke Sunday (1/23) to 44 degrees at 7:30 AM.  By 10:00 the temperature was in the 60s.  Kodi and I took another 4 miles morning walk.   This was followed by a 19 mile bike ride to Whole Foods.  Turns out I forgot to get my favorite fresh ground peanut butter. 

Our bike ride took us north on Gulf Shores Boulevard, which is lined with large homes with a Gulf view; one more spectacular than the next.  We had lunch at Whole Foods and then bicycled back directly south down US41 (which had a bike lane).  The trip back was 8 miles as compared to the scenic route north that was 11 miles. 

Our next activity was a dingy ride south down Naples Bay to explore a section called Port Royal where we heard their were some spectacular homes.  We were not disappointed.

Magnificent Port Royal home.  15,000 square feet????

Another spectacular Port Royal home under construction

Lazzara yacht tied up in Port Royal channel
As we approached the Naples Boat Club I took a photo of Mega Byte, a large over 100 foot yacht tied up just down the dock from us.  This is the largest boat we saw in Naples.



The evening ended with dinner at Handsome Harry's where we had dinner last Tuesday when we arrived in Naples. 

Tomorrow we plan to cruise to Key West if the apparent weather window holds up.

Written by Les.