Life in the Fast Lane: Green Flag to Norfolk

"Life in the Fast Lane" is proving a perfect name for this series.  Things are happening so quickly and often we are moving so fast (40 MPH) on rough or bumpy water that it is difficult to blog.  That said, I always seem to be in a catch up mode with my blog.

Note to Readers: A big thanks to those of you who have commented on your enjoyment of the blog and my writing.  I'm glad you are enjoying.  I love writing about our cruising adventures and making a record of what I'm finding is an incredible life experience. From time to time Diana and I reread articles.  It's amazing how much you forget at our age but how it all comes back, rather vividly, as we reread our adventures.

Also, I love your comments.  Someday I will figure out how to reply.

The weather for Saturday was still being influenced by the powerful cold front that had been moving across the eastern US from the very start of our trip. As of Saturday, it was right at the coast.  Now winds were shifting to the northwest as a high pressure was building in.    This produced the following for our projected route to Norfolk:

• Wrightsville Beach and Beaufort: Seas 2-3 Winds NW 10-15
• Cape Hatteras: Seas 5 to 7 Winds NW 10-15
• Cape Hatteras to Norfolk: Sea 4 to 6.  Winds NW 10-15

The forecast suggested a 70 nautical mile run on the ocean to the Beaufort Inlet with the rest of the trip on the ICW.  The 180 nautical miles between the Beaufort Inlet and Norfolk contain considerable open water on the Neuse, Pamlico, Pungo and Alligator Rivers and the Albermale and Currituck Sounds where we could run at 40 MPH.  The last 30 miles to the end of the ICW pose no issues with regard to weather but are a slow go due to bridges that open on the hour and half hour.

We departed Wrightsville Beach at dawn (6:30 AM), headed south to the Masonboro Inlet, which was confusing due to extensive dredging operations, and turned north for Beaufort.  Our average speed to the inlet was 42 MPH (34 knots).on 1 to 2 foot seas that started on the port forward quarter producing a bumpy ride.  An hour later they had moved to the port aft quarter and the ride smoothed out.

While on the open water we checked the buoy reports for Cape Hatteras and north to Norfolk and confirmed that the predictions were holding up with 5 foot waves reported at the buoys.

We arrived at the Beaufort Inlet at 8:40 AM.  By 9:05 we had connected with the ICW just north of the Morehead Bridge.  Except for a few no wake zones and a few spots where we needed to run slowly, we cruised at 41 MPH for most of the trip.

At 4:53 PM we hit the first of four bridges on the last 20 miles of the ICW that had slowed Diana and I down when we passed this area about two weeks ago.    It took us hours to get through these bridges which open only at set time on weekdays.  The 64 hit this stretch on a weekend when bridges open on request.  Talk about luck.

Norfolk provided a "golden" opportunity to buy really cheap fuel.  Waterways Guide's fuel price website showed that Atlantic Yacht Basin at mile marker 15.2 was selling diesel at $3.49 per gallon, which is an INCREDIBLY low price.  We arrived there at 5:30 PM and started fueling.  I had estimated that we needed 851 gallons.  The attended said they had high speed pumps and that we would be able to make the Great Bridge which only opens ONCE on the hour.  The word "high" is the problem here.  His pumps may have been "fast" but they were not "high" speed. We calculated early on that they were pumping at 30 gallons per minute.  We needed 28.4 minutes to fill our tanks.

Watching a "gas" pump meter is like walking paint dry and it is especially frustrating if you are trying to make a bridge that only opens once a hour.  My calculation showed that we would be finished very close to 6:00 PM but would miss the bridge opening if we paid for the fuel in the conventional way (i.e., attendant takes your credit card to office, processes the charge and returns for your signature).  Solution.  We proposed to the attendant that he run the card the old fashion way and have my friend sign the invoice.  The attendant agreed and we cleared the dock at 6:01 just in time to be the last boat in line.  Talk about life in the fast lane or good luck, whichever you prefer.

Leaving Atlantic Yacht Basin at 6:01 PM

6:02 PM following a very slow moving sailboat under Great Bridge
The wall ahead is the northbound door of Great Bridge Lock

Immediately beyond the bridge is the Great Bridge Lock, which open in conjunction with the bridge. This is an easy lock with a 3 foot lift (drop in our case), rubber padding on the north wall (i.e., no fenders) and an attendant who places your lines around the bollard (talk about service).  By 6:20 we were out of the lock. We cleared the last bridge at 6:37 PM and docked at Waterside Marina at 6:45 PM.  I had left Waterside Marina 14 days ago on Guided Discovery for the 57 hour non stop run to Hingham.

Approaching Waterside Marina Norfolk

Estremo had made 250.6 miles in just under 12 hours for an average speed of 21 MPH.  For comparison, it took Guided Discovery approximately 48 hours and four full days of cruising to accomplish the same distance.  Further, a slow moving trawler cannot take full advantage of a weather window so you have to add 8 days for weather down time.  Life if the fast lane has its advantages.

We enjoyed a bottle of Chateau Montrose 2000 Medoc Grande Cru Classe on the aft deck.  Unfortunately we had not provision well and only had potato chips to accompany the wine.  Me thinks the captain would have done slightly better however he did not accompany the mate to the grocery store.  Oh well, you get what you pay for.

Sunset as viewed from the 64

Sophocles and I had a lovely dinner at 456 Fish and walked by the Battleship Wisconsin on the way back to the boat.

Battleship Wisconsin

Notice the number "64"

Final numbers for four days of running:

• Fort Lauderdale to Fernandina Beach: 300 NM (345 SM)
• Fernandina to Charleston: 212 NM (243 SM)
• Charleston to Wrightsville Beach: 162 NM (186 SM)
• Wrightsville Beach to Norfolk: 251 NM (288 SM)
• Total Distance Traveled: 925 NM (1,063 SM)
• Total Fuel Used: 2,890 gallons
• Total Time on the Water: 42 hours
• Miles To Chicago: 1,535 NM (1,765 SM)

Estremo at Waterside Marina

The weather for Sunday was perfect for a 400 NM (460 SM) run to Troy, NY which would puts us in position to start the Erie Canal.  Stay tuned for some twists and turns in the next article, "Yellow Flag on the Hudson."

Written by Les.